Thursday, 17 September 2009

• BATTLE PUMPKIN (edited)

  Amuse Bouche of Kabocha Pumpkin
  A Menage a Trois of Pumpkin themed dishes meant to amuse the mouth
  

  
  

  
  This is the first week of IReallyLikeFood's Ingredient of the Week showcase, featuring ingredients which readers and contributors use as a base for creating dishes to be shown on the main site. 
  
  This isn't meant to be a competition of course, but this reminds me of the Iron Chef concept, which I like. 
  
  This first week, we have:  Battle Pumpkin.
  
  I've felt like I've needed direction and a little fun -- something where I could stretch my legs a bit and go back to just enjoying myself in the kitchen again; and I think this is a good thing for me.
  
  We're going with an Amuse Bouche concept today, with a Menage a Trois of Pumpkin dishes in small portions meant to "amuse the mouth" more than to fill someone up.  This will be a playful showcase in which we cook and taste small bites of food with big bursts of flavor, texture and temperature contrasts, which could be served in hors d'oeuvres fashion if we wanted to -- but otherwise we're just playing with food today.
  
  
  

  We're going to explore a few of the various ways that Pumpkin can be used today; centered on three Amuse-Bouche approaches -- one Traditional approach based on the cuisine of India and South Asia, one Modern approach based on a Western American and Eastern Asian fusion, and one Raw approach to showcase the natural flavor and texture of Pumpkin just as it is.

  
  
  Our courses are as follows:
  
  

  • Pan-Roasted Short Rib of Beef with Panko Crusted Kabocha Pumpkin with Jack Daniels Rosemary Pumpkin Sauce and Pea Shoots
    
  
  
  • Cold Curried Roast Kabocha Pumpkin with Peas, Red Onions, Mint and Yoghurt
    
  
  
  • Raw Kabocha Pumpkin and Daikon Ribbon Salad with Cilantro in Mirin-Lime-Sambal Dressing
    

  
  I realize I'm deviating from my usual course by preparing more Prix Fixe/ Kaiseki type dishes here instead of dishes that people would normally order off of a menu as their standards, but hey... gotta have something new once in a while, right?
  
  Before we start though, I want to introduce you to the Kabocha Pumpkin -- the Japanese Pumpkin.  I like using this because... well, it's what we use here.
  
  
  

  
  

  
  This is what it looks like when you cut it open.  See?  Pumpkin.
  
  
  

  
  

  
  I'm keeping the instructions shorter than normal this time because we're doing three dishes today.  If you need me to elaborate, ask me.
  
  Okay, Let's get it on.
  
  
  
  
  

  * * * * *
  

  
  
  
  
  Okay, let's get to the meat.
  
  Center Course:  Pan-Roasted Short Rib of Beef with Panko Crusted Kabocha Pumpkin with Jack Daniels Rosemary Pumpkin Sauce and Pea Shoots
  
  

  

  
  This is the piece d'resistance of this menage a trois.
  
  This course is meant to showcase Pumpkin in two ways:  Paired with Beef, and as a Bourbon-infused Sauce.  The Pea Shoots used here link this course with the Curried Pumpkin dish.    This course is also the Modern Interpretation in this regard, taking the Peppercorn-Crusted Cowboy-Style Beef Short Rib and pairing it with a Japanese Kabocha Katsu, with a Sauce based on Jack Daniels Bourbon.
  
  The pairing with Beef is a natural one, and the secondary pairing with the Massamun Curry in the second course is a natural one as well.  One of my favorite long-stewed curry dishes is actually Short Rib with Pumpkin in Massamun Curry.  Instead what I decided to do here was Pan-Roast the Short Rib after a Dry-Aging period (to naturally tenderize it through enzymatic action), and then pair it with the Curry flavor in the second course.
  
  The initial inspiration for this dish actually came from a dish I like eating that is much simpler:  The Pommes Frites -- or Steak and Fries.  Usually, this is made with some random steak and random fries.  I decided to use Short Rib, with it's good beefy flavor, and Pumpkin crusted with Japanese Panko instead of Potato, because the sweetness of the Kabocha Pumpkin balances well with the Umami of the beefiness of the Short Rib, with the crunch of the Panko.  Instead of some random wussy Aioli, I'm using f'n Jack Daniels and a Pumpkin Cream Sauce.
  
  A Bourbon-Based sauce is almost natural for a good Steak dish, and it works well with Pumpkin sauces since a popular flavoring combination is Sweet mashed potato with Bourbon.  Taking this all together, we have the central course.
  
  I N G R E D I E N T S:
  
  

  Serving for Two as appearing in the photo:
  
  2 pieces Beef Short Rib, Dry-Aged, roughly 2"x2"x2"
  Coarse Grind Salt and Peppercorns to Season
  Cooking Oil to fry
  2 1/4" thick slices Kabocha Pumpkin, skin trimmed off
  Coconut Milk to brush on
  Panko to coat
  1 Cup Kabocha Pumpkin, chopped roughly in 1/4" to 1/2" cubes
  1 to 2 Shots Jack Daniels Bourbon Whisky (or more if you like)
  1 Cup Heavy Cream or Half and Half
  1 Rosemary Sprig
  Ground Nutmeg to taste
  1 end trimming Chinese Pea Shoot
  

  
  P R O C E D U R E:
  
  

  
  
  
  First thing we're doing is taking our Beef Short Rib and Dry Aging it.  If you don't know how to do that, look here at one of my old Thousandthdish entries:
  
  http://thousandthdish.xanga.com/514026532/item/
  
  It's the way Alton Brown does it.  It's the way I do it.  I suppose if you didn't want to Dry-Age, it's fine -- it just won't come out as good.  We're using Short Rib because it's a good beefy cut.  Short Rib is an under-used cut, and it's cheap.  Usually, you cut it thin and grill it for Galbi, or you cut it thick and braise it for stews.  I Dry Age this and grill it and eat it hot.  Tastes great.  Salt and Pepper this.  Coarse Grind Peppercorns and Coarse Grind Sea Salt here.
  
  
  
  
  Heat your Skillet.  I'm using an All-Clad 3qt Saucier here.  It's a very handy pan to have.  Heat it until water drops shoot around like they're on crack.  That's hot.
  
  When that happens, add your oil.  When your oil just begins to smoke (and not more), put your hunks of meat into the oil.  We're going to do the whole thing in the pan, so we sear each side until it's nice and brown.  When all sides are browned, we turn down the heat to low and cover the pan for 10 minutes to let the ambient heat cook the meat through.
  
  
  
  
  Remove the outer shell of your Pumpkin, and cut up the Pumpkin flesh into rough 1/4" to 1/2" chunks.  It doesn't really matter because you're going to Puree it at the end.  We're cutting them small-ish so they cook faster.
  
  Start your Pan hot, add the Pumpkin, and then add your Cream.  The amount of Cream is kind of arbitrary -- it's the finished consistency that's important not how much Cream you use.  Add your Jack Daniels Bourbon Whisky, and Rosemary Sprig here and mix.
  
  Let it come to a boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer.  Check on it and stir it once in a while.  In about 10 minutes or so, the Pumpkin will be soft.  This is when you remove it from the heat.
  
  
  
  
  
  Yes, we're using Good Ol' JD.  I think it's funny that this is considered the "weak" stuff in this house that I use to cook with.
  
  
  
  
  We're going to do the Kabocha Katsu now.
  
  Instead of the standard flour/ egg/ Panko deal, we're going to slice the Kabocha into roughtly 1/4" inch thick slices, and brush them with the Coconut Milk we have for making the 2nd course.  We then dust the surfaces with Panko and then press it into the surface firmly.  Notice, we're using the coarsest grind of Panko there is.  Panko, btw, is Japanese bread crumb.  It's superior in this use.  Just use it -- almost every supermarket in the US carries it.
  
  
  
  
  Heat your oil to between 350 and 375 degrees, and put the breaded Pumpkin in.  Make sure you watch your oil thermometer.  Don't let it overheat.  Maintain the temperature inside this range.  When the whole thing is nice and golden brown after a few minutes (just watch it), take it out and drain on some paper towels.
  
  
  
  
  Meanwhile, go back to your Sauce.  It should be cooked and the Pumpkin should be soft.
  
  Turn off the heat, take out the Rosemary sprig, and tip your Saucepot to get everything into a corner.  Use an Immersion Blender to Puree everything.  If you need more Cream, add more cream.  At this point, add some Nutmeg and Salt to taste.
  
  
  
  
  After Pureeing, it should look something like this.  You want a consistency that will coat the back of a spoon.  Plate this and serve ASAP.  This sauce will continue to thicken as it cools.
  
  Use a spoon to ladle the sauce down in a circle on your plate.  Place your Beef Short Rib on top of it.  Place some Pea Sprouts on top of the Short Rib, then lean the Kabocha Katsu on top of the whole thing as below.
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  Plate and go on to the next step.
  

  
  
  
  
  

  * * * * *
  

  
  
  
  

  Our Second Course, Cold Curried Kabocha Pumpkin with Peas, Red Onions, Mint and Yoghurt, is our Traditional Course, based on Indian and South Asian cuisine.
  
  

  

  
  This course is designed to showcase Pumpkin in an Exotic Traditional dish, as well as provide the Massamun Curry flavor to go with the Beef Short Rib and Kabocha Katsu of the First Course.  This course is also a distinct Temperature contrast with the First Course, being a Cold dish.  This course is also a distinct Texture contrast, being a simmered, tender preparation.
  
  In the United States, when we think of Pumpkin, we think of Halloween and Thanksgiving and Pumpkin Pies.  There isn't very much culinary usage for Pumpkin other than this.  For the rest of the world however, the Pumpkin is as versatile as any other squash.  I was in a toss-up with a Moroccan Pumpkin dish for this course, but this one won over.  All across South Asia, especially in the areas with Muslim Influence, dishes like this can be found everywhere.
  
  This dish is served cold, like an American Potato Salad, except Curried, with Pumpkins.  The tang of the Yoghurt and the Fresh Mint balance out this dish and add to its complexity.
  
  I N G R E D I E N T S:
  
  

  Serving for Two in Amuse Bouche portions:
  
  1 Cup Kabocha Pumpkin chopped roughly into 1/4" to 1/2" cubes
  1 Tbsp Massamun Curry Paste
  1 Tbsp Fermented Fish Sauce
  1/4 Cup (or more if you like) Coconut Milk
  1/4 Cup Petite Peas
  Red Onion sliced paper-thin to taste
  1/4 Cup Plain Yoghurt
  1 Sprig Mint, torn up for garnish
  

  
  
  P R O C E D U R E:
  
  
  

  
  
  First thing we do is remove the husk from the Pumpkin, and the cut it into roughly 1/4" to 1/2" cubes.  This is a rustic-style dish so it doesn't really matter.
  
  Heat your pan and put 1 Tbsp of Butter into it and let it melt.  Add your Pumpkin, and saute on Medium heat.  Make sure the Pumpkin is covered with the Butter.  What we're doing here is Caramelizing the surface of the Pumpkin to add more depth of flavor.
  
  
  
  
  When the surface of the Pumpkin is nicely browned, add the Massamun Curry and Saute for about 1 minute before adding the Coconut Milk.  This is to open up the flavor of the Curry.  Add your Fish Sauce now, then cook for another 10 minutes, stirring every so often.
  
  When done, transfer to a bowl and refrigerate.
  
  
  
  
  
  After refrigerating to 2-3 hours or overnight, your Curried Pumpkin should look something like this.
  
  
  
  
  Slice up your Red Onions as paper thin as you can.  This means 1/16" inch or less.  If it is any thicker, it will unbalance the flavor.  Defrost your peas, get out your Yoghurt and Mint.  Mix the Peas, Red Onion and Curry.  Tear up some Mint over this, and spoon some Yoghurt down around the Curried Pumpkin.  Like below:
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  Plate and go on.
  

  
  
  
  
  * * * * *
  

  
  
  
  

  Our Third Course, Raw Kabocha Pumpkin and Daikon Ribbon Salad with Cilantro in Mirin-Lime-Sambal Dressing, is designed to showcase the Pumpkin in its natural form, completely Raw.
  
  

  
  

  
  I've been eating a lot of Raw Food lately.  Partially this comes out of laziness, I have to admit -- but mostly I've been eating Raw because since I started eating Raw, I feel as if my body is much healthier as a result of not having to deal with processed foods or complex chemicals.  Part of this resulted in my dropping about 30 pounds, while maintaining lean muscle mass and muscular power.  As a fighter, I appreciate this.  I'm leaner and stronger than I've ever been before, and I'm fast as hell now.  Think I hit you hard and fast at 205?  Try me at 170, twice as fast and just as powerful.  I love it.
  
  Also, I think Sarma Melngailis is hot.
  
  C'mon, dude look at her.  Don't tell me you wouldn't go Vegan for that.
  
  Anyway, this Raw Third Course is a stark contrast to the first two preparations.  This course is thinly shaved ribbons of Raw Kabocha Pumpkin and Marinated Daikon with Cilantro leaves.  That's pretty Paleo, if you ask me.  It's Crunchy, Fresh, Sweet Sour and Bitter, and Bright. 
  
  One of the things I didn't realize about Raw Kabocha Pumpkin before I tried it was that it tastes like a cross between Green Papaya and Carrot, which is very nice.  I could probably eat Raw Kabocha Pumpkin shavings as a snack, without the Dressing even.
  
  This is also the simplest preparation.  But isn't it pretty?
  
  I N G R E D I E N T S:
  
  

  Serving for Two in Amuse Bouche Portions:
  
  1 Cup loosely packed Kabocha Pumpkin shavings
  1 Cup loosely packed Daikon shavings
  2 Sprigs Cilantro, torn up roughly
  1/4 Cup Mirin
  1/4 Cup Rice Vinegar
  1 Tbsp Sugar
  Juice of 1 Lime
  1 tsp Sambal Oelek
  

  
  P R O C E D U R E:
  
  

  
  
  
  
  This is Daikon.  It's a Japanese Radish.  FYI, this is the white particle stuff you see floating in your Tempura sauce (if your Japanese restaurant actually makes it correctly).
  
  
  
  
  
  Use a vegetable peeler and peel off some long ribbons of your Pumpkin.
  
  
  
  
  
  Using a vegetable peeler, peel off some long ribbons of your Daikon.
  
  Because un-treated Daikon is very harsh tasting, we're going to marinate it for a bit.  Combine 1/4 cup Mirin with 1/4 cup Rice Vinegar and add 1Tbsp of Sugar, the juice of 1 Lime and place your Daikon ribbons in this for 30 minutes.
  
  
  
  
  
  When done, take out your Daikon and add 1tsp of Sambal Oelek and mix.
  
  Combine your Raw Pumpkin ribbons and your Daikon ribbons and mix in your Cilantro.  Plate this in a loose heap, and spoon the marinade over the whole thing, as below.
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  Plate and DONE!
  

  
  

  
  
  

  * * * * *
  

  
  
  
  
  Here's a Fact:  I've been listening to Le Festin by Camille, the theme song from Ratatouille, for hours now.  I listened to it while I was cooking.  I'm listening to it while I'm editing and producing.  I love this song.
  
  I've even gotten up and waltzed around the room with an imaginary partner a few times.  This is one of my favorite movies and one of my favorite songs.
  
  I identify with Remy and Gusteau here:  Anyone can cook.
  
  If you're here for the first time, this is what I do.  I believe this in my heart and soul.  I believe that Food is Love, and that one of the best ways to show someone Love is to cook for them.  I believe that Anyone can cook.  And I'm here to teach people how to do that.
  
  Seeing the opening shot, I bet you thought something along the lines of 'Whoa'.  But if you look at the instructions piece by piece and deconstruct it all, it's all quite simple -- it's all something anyone can do.  Sure, it will take time to understand how flavors, textures, temperatures and mouthfeel all relate to one another, but that just comes with experience.  Too few of us can cook these days.  I want to change that.
  
  The first girl I ever loved, I cooked for her the first dish I ever made.  It was awful, but she loved it because I made it for her knowing that it was her favorite dish.
  
  I read an entry lately from a girl who was completely elated that her boyfriend made her a sandwich.  O M G.  But you know what?  I get it.
  
  Food = Love.
  
  I always say it.
  
  The truth is, if my theoretical girlfriend made me a sandwich, I would be just as elated.  Imagine how elated your loved ones will be when you can produce delicious home-cooked meals that are above restaurant quality?  You can do it.  I've taught dozens of friends over the years individually, and I'm here now.  Anyone can cook.  That would be you.
  
  Come, walk with me.
  
  My Love and Aloha to you, as always.
  

  
  

  
  EDIT:  Best thing of all -- if I made 16 portions of this Amuse Bouche in Hors d'Oevures style, it would all come out to about $1.30 a person for this.
  
  EDIT2:  I didn't realize so many people liked Pumpkin!  I invite you, go get a Pumpkin and make one of your own favorite Pumpkin Dishes out of it and post it for us to see :)
  
  EDIT3:  Original Post made on 9/15/09 at 11:01PM in Hawai'i, when most of you guys are sleeping.  Made a few edits to the recipes, re-updating.  My apologies for those of you who are seeing this a second time, but I think some people may have missed this one because of the timing.
  
  
  

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