Tuesday, 10 November 2009

• Galbi Jjim (Korean Braised Beef Shortrib and Vegetable Stew)

  
  

  Galbi Jjim
  

  Korean Braised Beef Shortrib and Vegetable Stew
  

  
  
  

  (some stew liquid removed to show contents better)
  

  
  
  This is the Eighth Week of IReallyLikeFood's Challenge Of The Week Showcase, featuring ingredients and themes which readers and contributors use as a base for creating dishes.
    
  This Eighth Week, it's a Theme:  Stews
  
  I decided to revisit one of my old favorites, Galbi Jjim.
  
  Some of you really oldschool readers from back when I was writing at Thousandthdish may remember this dish; either from there or from Koreancooking (wow, the old days) where it was posted too.  In fact, a lot of you first found this blog from that Galbi Jjim entry, some of you who eventually became very good friends of mine; so in that way, this dish was responsible for bringing about many of our friendships.
  
  For you oldschool readers, this may be a bit of a re-run; but if you ever made this; this is one of the best tasting things I've ever made for Dish/ Chow, and it's worth making again this winter, now that things are starting to get cold again. 
  
  Also, there are many techniques in this entry that are relevant to making stews in general; as we cover the science of braising and how/ why low-and-slow works best in cooking meats from tough to fork-tender.
  
  For you new readers, this one is a time-tested recipe that's been made by... well, a lot of people.  And it's become a winter stew staple for many.  It's also very easy to make.
  
  Speaking of the old days -- take a look at the comment/ eprop count back in those days.  I can't even imagine getting 210 comments and 338 eprops on a single freaking post anymore.
  
  Anyway, let's get to the meat of it.
  
  Get it?  Meat?  Har-har.  *cough*  Ok.
  
  
  
  
  
  

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  Galbi Jjim (갈비찜) is a dish often found in a large clay or stone pot on the table during Korean family dinners and celebrations, and for many people, represents true home-style comfort food.
  
  The Korean word Galbi (갈비) refers to the Beef Rib cut from the Chuck Primal located between ribs 1 through 5.  These have a higher meat to fat proportion than the cuts from ribs 6 to 12 of the Plate Primal, but when cut from a Choice or Prime graded primal, these are often very well marbled and suitable for steak-type eating.
  
  

  
  
  

  
  Galbi is cut in two styles: The English or "Thick-cut" or "Jjim" style, that are cut parallel to the bone; and the Flanken, or the "Cali" or "L.A." style, which are cut across the bone, with three or four short bones in a long strip.  I happen to like using thick cuts of Flanken cut,  sliced between the bones, although the English cut is the more common cut used for this dish.
  
  The Korean word Jjim (찜), taken literally, is to steam (but actually refers to braising in english).  Most people, when making Galbi Jjim, make the mistake of immersing and boiling the Galbi in a sauce that is over-diluted with water and then removing it too quickly before the connective tissues can break down.  The key to making a flavorful and tender Galbi Jjim is to use a technique that "steams" (braises) the Galbi while it is only partially immersed in a thick, super-saturated braising sauce for a long period of time.
  
  We will be focusing on material and technique -- three aspects of the dish to make our perfect Galbi Jjim: Tenderization through natural and added Enzymatic action; The moist-heat Jjim (braising) technique; and the necessity of the bones and connective tissues.
  
  
  TENDERIZING
  
  First, we start with a big ol' hunk o' Galbi.
  
  

  Dry-Aging Beef
  
  Beef is dry-aged to make it more tender and flavorful.  During dry-aging, enzymatic proteolysis, or breakdown of muscle proteins, connective tissues and fibers occurs.  Larger protein components of meat break down into smaller fragments and as this process continues, the meat becomes extremely tender.  Also, because a significant amount of moisture evaporates during dry-aging, the beef has a stronger, more intense flavor.
  

  
  
  The best way to dry-age beef at home is to do it the way Alton Brown does it.  The technique is simple, and can be found in my Steak au Poivre recipe on Thousandthdish.  You don't have to dry-age your beef, but if you do your results will be better.
  
  
  K O R E A N    P E A R
  Fruits as Tenderizing Agents
  
  Certain fruits contain Protease enzymes like Bromelain and Papain that can be used to break down protein for use as a meat tenderizer.
  
  Papaya and Kiwi are among the strongest.  If you use Papaya and Kiwi, you must be careful how long you expose your meat -- you can literally turn your meat into mush if you leave it too long.
  
  We are using Korean Pear because it is the most authentic. Asian Pears are acceptable also, but the proteolytic action of the Korean Pear is about twice as effective as the Asian Pear.
  
  For this recipe, we are mainly using the Korean Pear for flavor, because proteolytic enzymatic activity stops above cooking temperatures. If you want your Galbi even more tender, marinate in the Pear juice before cooking.
  
  
  BRAISING (Jjim 찜)
  
  A braise is based on flavor extraction.  A SMALL amount of braising liquid is added to the meat and the pot is covered.  As everything begins to cook, steam is generated from the simmering broth.  The broth will begin to pick up the flavors released by the meat and the meat will return its own flavors into the broth.  The broth transforms from a simple braising liquid into a flavorful, complex sauce.
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  Braising is a moist-heat cooking technique.  Moist heat breaks down the collagen in meat. Braising allows for this connective tissue breakdown without muscle-fiber breakdown.  The braising process heats the muscle fibers, which consist mainly of water.  Once heated, they contract, which squeezes out some of the moisture and causes shrinking and drying.  Connective tissues also release water when heated.  Plus, the heat and moisture turns the collagen in the connective tissue into a rich, flavorful gelatin that also melds with the braising liquid.  When the muscle fibers reabsorb this liquid, the braising cycle is complete.
  
  
  

  Food scientists have compared collagen conversions in a rump roast when it is dry-roasted well done (about a two-hour process), and when it is braised for 30 minutes and for 90 minutes.  The roasted sample had 14% of its collagen gelatinized, the 30-minute braise 11%, and the 90- minute braise 52%.  The long, slow braise is the best way to tenderize meat with high connective-tissue content.
  

  
  
  KEY: To properly make Galbi Jjim, you MUST braise it slow-and-low for at least 90 minutes.
  
  KEY: Make sure you use the bones in this dish. During the braising, marrow will escape, flavoring your sauce with the same richness you find in Osso Bucco. Boneless "Galbi" will not have the connective tissue attached to the bone, and will not taste as good in this dish.
  
  
  
  
  

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  I N G R E D I E N T S:
  
  

  STUFF:
  
  

  4 lbs beef short rib, english or "thick" cut
  10 gingko nuts (optional*)
  10 dried jujuba (red chinese dates)
  

  
  
  SAUCE:
  
  

  6 cups beef stock (stock left over from boiling beef rib)
  10 Tbsp soy sauce
  6 Tbsp grated pear (preferably Korean pear)
  1 piece rock sugar or 4 Tbsp honey (or 9 Tbsp of sugar)
  6 cloves garlic, smashed
  2 pieces ginger cut into 1/2 pieces and smashed
  2 Tbsp sesame seed oil
  1/4 cup rice wine
  3 Tbsp fine gochugaro**
  
  

  
  ADD-ON AT END:
  
  

  1 medium onion, rustic chopped
  10 chestnuts, whole and peeled
  4 green onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
  2 carrots, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
  10 fresh pyogo or shiitake mushrooms***
  10 fresh oyster mushrooms
  1 handful enoki mushrooms
  

  
  
  * NOTE: If you can get gingko nuts, by all means use them. Authentic Galbi Jjim uses gingko nuts. However, as they are almost impossible to find, good luck. Rumor has it that there are gingko trees somewhere in Central Park where you can get gingko nuts for free.
  
  ** NOTE: Gochugaro is Korean red chili pepper flake/ powder. If you are using the kind from Korea and not China (look on the package, most gochugaro in the United States is from China), reduce by half.
  
  *** NOTE: We are using FRESH Pyogo or Shiitake mushrooms because they are more subtle in flavor and texture, and dried variety overpowers in this dish. Use dried if you must, but this tastes better with fresh.

  
  
  P R O C E D U R E:
  
  

  Let's start with the Beef.  First, cut it between the bones if you have Flanken Cut.  If you have the English or Jjim cut, it should already be cut similarly from the butcher.
  
  
  
  
  Wash and Score your beef.  This is to allow for the penetration of the flavors, and to break some connective tissue.  Notice how tender dry-aging makes it?  It's falling off the bone and we haven't even cooked it yet.
  
  
  
  
  Boil your beef for ten minutes in just  enough water to cover, or a minimum of 6 cups, whichever is less. Remove after ten minutes, skim the surface to remove the foam.  This process is important because the crappy beef foam (which I joke about a lot) is really not very tasty and makes the finished dish feel bad in the mouth.
  
  We are not searing this first to make use of the additional flavor compounds produced by the Maillard Reaction because after several trials, I discovered that the initial browning does not work well because we are scoring the meat before cooking and essential juices that should be in the sauce escape into the searing pot; and because the finished sauce is so deep and intense that the difference between a pre-seared piece of meat one that is not is barely noticable -- and the browning only adds to the time and difficulty of making this dish. 
  
  Also, the beef foam removal is generally more important in this case.
  
  
  
  
  Reserve 6 cups of cooking liquid.  I loved this measuring cup, it was huge.  I think someone took it while I was passed out drunk one night back then, because wow cool, giant measuring cup.
  
  
  
  
  Mix the sauce.
  
  
  
  
  Wash the beef and wash the pot if you are going to reuse it.  We do not want beef foam!  Just say no to beef foam!  >_<;;
  
  
  
  
  Place beef back into a big pot, add the sauce, and the reserved cooking liquid only to the halfway point on the galbi -- no more. Add gingko nuts and jujuba (chinese dates). Bring to a boil, then drop to a SIMMER.
  
  COVER tightly.
  
  
  
  
  SIMMER for at least 90 minutes, checking  to make sure there is always at least a little bit of liquid at the bottom of the pot.
  
  It is very important when making dishes like these, to not let the braising liquid continue to boil -- a SIMMER is the key to producing good results here.  A simmer is bubbles just breaking the surface.  Keep the cover on, this is very very very very very important, as you cannot Jjim without a cover on tightly.
  
  
  
  
  Add the "Add-on at end" ingredients.  Pick and choose what you want.  Authentic Galbi Jjim has the chestnuts.  A famous Galbi Jjim restaurant in Bundang adds the rest as part of their signature dish. Cook for 20 more minutes.
  
  

  
  

  
  

  Omnomnom.
  

  
  
  
  
  

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  Before I end this entry, I want to capitalize on a few key points in making a good Galbi Jjim. For details, read back into the entry.
  
  
  

  1) You MUST braise the Galbi slow-and-low at a simmer for AT LEAST 90 minutes.
  
  2) You MUST only add braising liquid halfway up the side of the Galbi, and add more cooking liquid to replace as it steams out. At the end, your sauce should be almost syrup-like.
  
  3) You MUST cover your pot, and make sure you use a heavy stainless steel or cast iron pot.
  

  
  
  Everything else is fluff. You may add extra vegetables at the end. I do, because I like making a meal out of this. If you just want to eat meat, that's fine too. What I like doing after the meat is done, is taking more vegetables and cooking them in the leftover sauce.  This dish tastes even better in the days after.  I could eat this all week.  And if you want to keep making Galbi Jjim, freeze and keep the leftover sauce to use as a "mother" sauce for cooking more later.
  
  
  
  
  

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  Looking back over the years, it amazes me how much things have changed.
  
  Some friends from back then are no longer friends today; and some who I didn't even know then are great friends of mine today.  Incredibly, one of you who used to read me and lurk me then without saying anything to me has become somewhat of my best friend.  Some of you found me after I stopped writing, and kept me subbed hoping I would come back some day (I thank you for sticking around) -- and to this day, some of you old readers are still trickling back in.
  
  I purposely re-used my profile pic from Thousandthdish because of this... in hopes that some old readers may recognize me from it; and come back -- and many of you have found me again this way.
  
  It was interesting, looking back through Thousandthdish, through the comments sections.  A lot of you are using new xanga names now; and so I see all your feedback coming from your old xangas.  I click on them, and it's like a journey into the past; reading entries from three years ago; when things were different.
  
  In any case, welcome back old friends -- and welcome to our new home here, new friends. 
  
  Love and Aloha to you all, as always, from these islands of Hawai'i. 
  

  
  
  

  How long have you been on Xanga?  What was your Xanga Name back in the old days?  Are you an Old Reader or a New Reader?  Do you remember how you first got here?
  
  Also, do you have a favorite Stew?
  
  
  

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